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Using worn out abrasive cloth.
If you
think that a piece of well worn abrasive will do as the next grade
down, think again. The grit is still the same size but there is less
of it. If your abrasive doesn't produce a fine dust (if you are dry
sanding) it isn't cutting. Don't waste time on one grade by
over-sanding. All that will happen is that your work piece gets hot.
Using Sanding Sealer.
This is
for sealing the grain and also has some hardening effect. You do not
need it on a close grained wood, but on an open grained wood you may
need two or more coats to seal the fibres. If you have some torn end
grain, sanding sealer will help before you start sanding with your
coarsest grit. Do not be afraid of using 80 grit to take out turning
marks. You do not get any prizes for getting a beautiful finish
straight from the tools.
Sanding sealer
is best put on with the work stationary and then you can dry it off
with a handful of shavings. This produces a nice surface for your
chosen finish.
Legalities.
There
is much faulty conception about health and safety regulations. In
the domestic situation the health and safety regulations do not
apply. Thus you are quite free to breathe in your toxic dust, fall
off your ladder, not wear protective clothing or use rags wrapped
round your fingers for polishing.
However, if you are
paid to do a job or are paying someone then the regulations apply.
Thus a professional turner giving instruction must abide by the
regulations. Sanding at home you can do as you like and it is your
own responsibility how you work.
Use of Finishing Polishes and
Oils etc.
Friction
polish is best reserved for small pieces, but if you apply it in
small doses and keep your polisher moving you will not get streaks.
It can be applied with the work turning or with it stationary, but
must be buffed up to a polish before it dries. Usually you can see
the sheen developing as you buff it up.
Some of the
finishing oils are to some extent oxidising agents and there have
been reports of polishing rags catching fire, but I have always
found that someone knows of a fellow to whom this has happened and I
have yet to find even a third hand example.
Dust Extraction.
An awful lot has been said about
this but to be safe treat ALL wood dust as harmful. If you smoke you
are already damaging your lungs, but dust protection is still
advisable. The only true safeguard is to wear a good respirator mask
or helmet. These cost a fair bit but are probably worth the expense.
Sharp tools.
Many professional turners use
their tools straight from the grindstone. The sharper the tool the
better it is to control, so if you have the time, hone them. Carbon
steel takes a better edge than HSS but doesn't keep it as long. By
all means use a jig, if you have the money, but again it is not
essential. The best grinding wheels are the aluminium oxide ones
which come in white and coloured, depending on the grit and
manufacturer. The ordinary grey wheel will generate more heat and
not give such a good edge. Carbon steel will lose its temper if it
gets too hot but, contrary to belief HSS does not.
Lastly, as woodturning is an
individual sport, don't believe there is a right way and a wrong
way. In my experience the professionals contradict each other all
the time but still produce some fine work. A good turner is not
necessarily a good presenter or demonstrator. |